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seeinglife.livejournal.comWith a commission, it's the seamstress's responsibility to make a satisfactory garment to your specifications. Having done a lot of commissions for a lot of different people, I'd like to suggest that anyone who wants to receive garments they are happy with do these things when commissioning something.
1.) Measure everything the seamstress asks for carefully and accurately. Wear the bra and panties you plan to wear under the finished garments when you measure - very important as many bras change the size and shape of your bust. The bust should be measured at the fullest point which is usually over your nipple. If the dress has an empire waist, measure the underbust measurement over the bottom of your bra since underwires can create a little more bulk that the dress will need to fit over in that area. Waist measurements should be at approximately the smallest part of your torso, not where you wear your jeans. Unless you are apple shaped, you can locate your waist pretty easily by bending to the side. It'll be where the crease forms. Your "hip" measurement is often not actually around your hipbones but a little below them, because it's supposed to be the widest part of your torso below your waist. Some seamstresses ask for some more uncommon measurements besides the standard bust/waist/hip/length. If you are at all uncertain of how to take that measurement, ask the seamstress to explain it to you or send you a picture. They can't make you a nicely fitting garment without accurate measurements!
2.) Mention any fitting problems you often have. If shoulders are often too tight, the waist often placed too high, your ribcage or cup size a bit different than most people with your measurements, if you're a cross-dressing male, sleeves too loose around the bicep, all your extra weight carried at your stomach, anything, mention it. This may mean you'll get asked to take more measurements, but would you rather have the same fitting problems yet again?
3.)Mention how you want things to fit. Tell the seamstress if you want your tops snugly fitted or loose or if you want to wear your skirt a couple inches below your natural waist. The defaults for lolita wear are generally for skirts to be worn at the natural waist and for tops to be a couple inches above your body measurements (semi-fitted). If you want your skirts or bloomers to be longer than knee length (again, default for most makers of lolita fashion), or shorter, mention it. If you don't mention it, you may end up with something fitting differently than you imagined.
4.)Do not be afraid to be specific. Show pictures examples if you can. Specify the kind of fabric you want if you have something specific in mind. (This seems to be important with overseas Ebay seamstresses; a lot of them make it in satin if not otherwise specified for some weird reason.) If you're commissioning a replica, make sure to specify what can or cannot be different. If you linked only a picture and not a description and something isn't readily apparent in the picture, like a lining, that the fabric is a certain type, or detachable sleeves, make sure to note those features. If you like an A-line skirt shape better than a belled skirt shape, speak up. If you don't know the proper term for what you want, describe it as best you can. (If it's an issue of English, try the memories. There's a list of sewing terms translated into many languages there.) If the maker gives you options and you don't know what they mean, don't guess. Ask, or look them up.
5.)Find out what the expected timeframe for receiving the item is. Handmade stuff takes time to make, longer than non sewing people realize, especially if there's a queue. And you should probably mentally add two weeks to any estimate, because although we try really hard, SOMETHING always seems to happen that delays it -- materials shortage, machine problems, sickness or family problems, computer crashes and she can't get online and now doesn't have your address. Not entirely fair, but it's true and really common. If it's for an event, let them know when that event is. If the seller doesn't specify shipping method, ask what they use and how long it will take and if necessary offer more money for a faster method.
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