The Buyer's Role in a Satisfactory Commission

[seeinglife.livejournal.com]

With a commission, it's the seamstress's responsibility to make a satisfactory garment to your specifications. Having done a lot of commissions for a lot of different people, I'd like to suggest that anyone who wants to receive garments they are happy with do these things when commissioning something.

1.) Measure everything the seamstress asks for carefully and accurately. Wear the bra and panties you plan to wear under the finished garments when you measure - very important as many bras change the size and shape of your bust. The bust should be measured at the fullest point which is usually over your nipple. If the dress has an empire waist, measure the underbust measurement over the bottom of your bra since underwires can create a little more bulk that the dress will need to fit over in that area. Waist measurements should be at approximately the smallest part of your torso, not where you wear your jeans. Unless you are apple shaped, you can locate your waist pretty easily by bending to the side. It'll be where the crease forms. Your "hip" measurement is often not actually around your hipbones but a little below them, because it's supposed to be the widest part of your torso below your waist. Some seamstresses ask for some more uncommon measurements besides the standard bust/waist/hip/length. If you are at all uncertain of how to take that measurement, ask the seamstress to explain it to you or send you a picture. They can't make you a nicely fitting garment without accurate measurements!

2.) Mention any fitting problems you often have. If shoulders are often too tight, the waist often placed too high, your ribcage or cup size a bit different than most people with your measurements, if you're a cross-dressing male, sleeves too loose around the bicep, all your extra weight carried at your stomach, anything, mention it. This may mean you'll get asked to take more measurements, but would you rather have the same fitting problems yet again?

3.)Mention how you want things to fit. Tell the seamstress if you want your tops snugly fitted or loose or if you want to wear your skirt a couple inches below your natural waist. The defaults for lolita wear are generally for skirts to be worn at the natural waist and for tops to be a couple inches above your body measurements (semi-fitted). If you want your skirts or bloomers to be longer than knee length (again, default for most makers of lolita fashion), or shorter, mention it. If you don't mention it, you may end up with something fitting differently than you imagined.

4.)Do not be afraid to be specific. Show pictures examples if you can. Specify the kind of fabric you want if you have something specific in mind. (This seems to be important with overseas Ebay seamstresses; a lot of them make it in satin if not otherwise specified for some weird reason.) If you're commissioning a replica, make sure to specify what can or cannot be different. If you linked only a picture and not a description and something isn't readily apparent in the picture, like a lining, that the fabric is a certain type, or detachable sleeves, make sure to note those features. If you like an A-line skirt shape better than a belled skirt shape, speak up. If you don't know the proper term for what you want, describe it as best you can. (If it's an issue of English, try the memories. There's a list of sewing terms translated into many languages there.) If the maker gives you options and you don't know what they mean, don't guess. Ask, or look them up.

5.)Find out what the expected timeframe for receiving the item is. Handmade stuff takes time to make, longer than non sewing people realize, especially if there's a queue. And you should probably mentally add two weeks to any estimate, because although we try really hard, SOMETHING always seems to happen that delays it -- materials shortage, machine problems, sickness or family problems, computer crashes and she can't get online and now doesn't have your address. Not entirely fair, but it's true and really common. If it's for an event, let them know when that event is. If the seller doesn't specify shipping method, ask what they use and how long it will take and if necessary offer more money for a faster method.

Comments

[seeinglife.livejournal.com]

Yes, but I'm not taking them right now due to backlog from when my serger went nutso and unusable (see what I mean about delays?).

[aieraelyn-sable.livejournal.com]

This is a really good post. I'm wondering if it should be added to memories. Even so I'll be adding it to mine. It's full of practical advice and suggestions. How should one handle conflicts with commissioned pieces? For example the time delay issue? Without turning it into a total bitch fest? Is it better to do the measurements youself, or to have a friend or parent help you?

[tiggielil.livejournal.com]

The main measurements you can probably do okay yourself, but some are pretty impossible. If you'd ever tried taking your own arm measurements, you'd learn that pretty quickly. ;)

[seeinglife.livejournal.com]

I've managed pretty well on my own for arm stuff. I'd measure the top half, then let go of the tape, then measure from the elbow down, in a mirror to make sure the tape was at the right place.

[tian-shi.livejournal.com]

I know! I've trying to do some basic measurement for my sloper forever, and I don't trust my boy's sloppy hands. I ended up measuring my dressform...

[seeinglife.livejournal.com]

This is just what I generally do for delays : If you made it clear that it's for an event, and had to be completed by then, and it wasn't due to the postal service messing up or anything, you are entitled to something if it's late. If they keep in good communication and notify you of any delays, or at the very least respond promptly to queries, I let it go unless it's a huuuuge delay.

A lot of the more specific measurements are kinda hard to take yourself and almost require a friend or someone else to help you - or at least knowing exactly how to take them with the aide of a mirror. Back shoulder width, back of neck to waist, armscye - a few I have asked for that will often require help. A friend can also be helpful to make sure the measuring tape isn't sagging in the back, causing an inaccurate measurement. But basic bust waist hip underbust length are doable by yourself.

[banshee123.livejournal.com]

This is all very useful to the unexperienced buyer, especially the measurement part. Thanks for posting :)

[seeinglife.livejournal.com]

Customers who know how to measure benefit all. ;)

[dykestar.livejournal.com]

Thanks for this!

I'm really quite leery of starting to do commissions for anyone that lives father than "can come be fitted in person" distance from me. I'm a perfectionist when it comes to things made for other people, so I'd always like to know what they actually look like, how things are hanging on them, etc.

So yeah, these are both great points because they will provide a *lot* of help with garmet-fittings. You might also include a request for a full-body picture. Just seeing a snapshot of the client in jeans and a t-shirt or something will be enough to help me be able to figure out a few nick-picky tweeks and nerdy sewing things.

[seeinglife.livejournal.com]

I'm pretty good at guessing a person's less common measurements from their more common ones and a general description or building a mental image from the measurements. From a general description or a pic I can tell if the msmts are way off usually, too.

[chibisweetloli.livejournal.com]

I'm so definetly saving this and referring people to it, it explains basically what I try to say in a really good way ^_^.

[seeinglife.livejournal.com]

A lot of stuff I've made recently has not fit due to what on further investigation are basically customer measuring errors. I feel kinda bad about it, but it's also a little frustrating. I usually tell them that they can send it back and I'll sell it off for what they paid and make them a new one when the rest of my queue clears.

[mizerableworld.livejournal.com]

Yay! Awesome!
*added to memories*

[missmeganmaude.livejournal.com]

I'm glad you posted it. I think some people will find it really useful.

One thing I find is that sometimes people send me the measurements that they *wish* they had. That usually is the waist being too small... or all the measurements being an inch or so off. In some cases it's that the measurements are from a year ago and they've gained weight since then and have not really realized it. Thankfully it doesn't happen too often though.

I also hate when people suddenly tell me that they needed the piece for an event. I cannot emphasize enough that people should tell a seamstress when they need the piece by. Many times, I can get an item out the door even under fairly short notice, but if you tell me a week or less before the event, then I really can't even guarantee it will get there if I send it that day.

[stockingshock.livejournal.com]

Amen to that.
Or when they suddenly mention, 'By the way, I took the measurements wearing my padded bra. Hope that's ok!'
Do you ever get the ones like, 'Whenever you're finished is fine', which turn into 'I actually wanted it for the xxth of xxx, I don't want it anymore', without any warning in between.
I've had so much bother with finishing on time lately 'cos I was ill for 6 months, and I'm trying to get everything on schedule again. But if someone tells me they don't need it for a deadline, I'll take it that they mean it, and theirs gets shoved to the back everytime I get a rush order.

[missmeganmaude.livejournal.com]

Yes! I get things like that a lot! I do the same thing. If I have a lot of orders I will push ones that can be done whenever to the back of the que. Several times I have had that happen where someone says "whenever is fine" and then they all of the sudden say "well I needed it by xx date!!! Why isn't it here??" And the worst is when they say they don't want it anymore. ~__~

[stockingshock.livejournal.com]

Glad it's not just me! especially when they say they want their money back since they no longer need it. I do have a terms-and-conditions thing, but if someone is awkward and you just want to get rid of them I usually give in and pay 'em off.
Inexplicable though is when someone pays half, as a deposit, then vanishes by the time it's finished. So you are left with a custom item you can't sell on. I always feel guilty about those, it's like I've taken the money and run... even though it was them doing the running. That's not happened for a few years, fortunately.

[seeinglife.livejournal.com]

I've never had someone decide they no longer wanted it and want money back, thankfully.

[seeinglife.livejournal.com]

This is why people should not so very casually say "whenever" to a seamstress. People clearly underestimate when "whenever" is.

The worst underestimation is on blouses. God, collared blouses are a lot of work. *working on several at the moment and will have to start more for the next round of sets*

[pierrotseven.livejournal.com]

I am glad someone brought up the issues with time. I have had two commissions in a row where the person negotied the terms of the sale and, once I was committed in some way, informed me they needed the item for an event in a week or two. (One case was a particular problem as the customer wished to pay via moneyorder...)

[pegasusmaiden.livejournal.com]

*cries Thank you so much for putting this out there. *I loves you

Sometimes I just don't get enough time to complete 4 or 5 projects at once. I kill myself all the time because I am a softy to requests like getting it done in 2 weeks when I really need at least 6 to find the material, draft the pattern, make a pratice one, then the final one.

[missmeganmaude.livejournal.com]

I used to be really bad about that too, but these days I just charge roughly double for that big of a rush. It's not worth the crazii amounts of stress otherwise. For small things like petticoats I don't mind and I might only charge $5.00 or nothing at all extra, but when people are like "omg!!! I need this fancy dress in two weeks!!!" then I up the price to make it worth my time.

[seeinglife.livejournal.com]

I just won't do rushes. Something always goes wrong.

[pierrotseven.livejournal.com]

I had the experience of two "rush" orders.

I do not think I will ever do that kind again.

[aingli-deas.livejournal.com]

There are other problems, some people want something to be a very good duplicate and I've found some seamstresses even though they say they can do it really just can't do a brand quality duplicate. I've seen some on here and they just don't measure up the brand labels, even in pictures. Though I'm sure others aren't as picky as me, especially if they can't fit into brands for whatever reasons or can't afford. I just always found this an issue with seamstresses, I'm not sure if the buyer is at fault here cause sometimes a seamstress will promise too much (I don't know how many GL sites I've emailed asking for an exact duplicate and they all say they can do this exact duplicate).

I'm planning to do commissions, only for undergarments (minus petticoats), nightwear, and bags, I don't think I could deal with making custom clothes for people, doing it for me or friends is one thing, doing it for others seems like it'd be a pain.

[seeinglife.livejournal.com]

Of course it is the seamstress's duty to deliver a good replica if they say they can and will -- this post's just about the buyer's end. If a buyer does the stuff talked about here and still doesn't get a good replica, it's definitely the maker's fault. One of my next planned posts is about how to choose a seamstress and things you should never tolerate/accept.

[pierrotseven.livejournal.com]

I suppose, to say for the seamstress, it is all about the abilities each one has. Are they able to make complex garments from experience? Or are they just making a special case for the customer? Though I would have to say it may be the seamstress' fault for accepting something beyond her present abilities.

[seeinglife.livejournal.com]

I think a seamstress should either not accept a commission that's beyond her experience, or should let the buyer know she's never made _____ before and charge less accordingly. The latter is something I've done in the past.

and knowing is half the battle.

[sweetngenki.livejournal.com]

Thanks for writing this up, it's very helpful. I recently contacted a seamstress about my first commission, and I was a little unsure of what I needed to ask/provide. Now I know! ^^

Re: and knowing is half the battle.

[seeinglife.livejournal.com]

*curtsy* Hopefully this makes it a little easier for buyer and seamstress alike.

[hellowonderland.livejournal.com]

Considering I juuust jumped into my first commission, nya, this was very helpful~! n_n I will put it to good use, nyu.

[pierrotseven.livejournal.com]

I am glad to see someone posting about this~
Thank you!