Pattern Drafting?

[marle777.livejournal.com]

I know there are quite a few talented seamstresses in this community that draft their own patterns and I've been wondering every now and then how those of you learned how to do this. I've done some research and it seems a very difficult craft to learn. I've read through a couple of related Yahoo groups' archived posts and it looks like so many of those people have been learning and doing it for years and they are still only beginners at it, but I see people my age doing it here in the G&L communities (and cosplay now that I think of it) with such wonderful results...

I know of the major books out there (the text by Helen Armstrong and a few others) and I've heard some of them can be really technical and full of mathematical jargon. Unfortunately my community college doesn't offer any fashion design courses and the one home study course out there has several bad reviews that I've read. So I ask you, where and/or how did you learn and what can you suggest?

Comments

[caliginous.livejournal.com]

First, there are two methods of pattern drafting, draping, and flat patterning. Draping is using pieces of cloth (usually muslin) or a form to create the desired pattern. You're basically end up pinning half a complete garment this way, tracing along the pin/seam lines, taking it off, transferring it to paper, squairng it all up, straightening out lines etc, and then you've got a pattern. Flat pattern/drafting uses 3 basic garments (called slopers) to begin-a bodice with 2 darts, pants, and a skirt. The slopers are designed to start and stop at the natural waist, and all have fitting darts, as though you were going to make them out of a non-stretchy fabric. Flat patterning involves a number of different techniques to alter the sloper pieces to get new patterns. You can cut them and spread them apart (slash and spread as its called), so a straight skirt could become a flared skirt. You can move darts around a couple of ways, eliminate them, etc. But it all comes from the basic sloper.

Draping is nice for some things, flat pattern for others. Once you're good at flat pattern, it's really quick and easy, as you pretty much know that it is going to fit each time, and you don't have to waste a bunch of fabric. Draping is better for some vintage designs (flat patterning is near impossible with a lot of the stuff from the '30's & '40's), and most things where you've got bias cuts. If you're looking for loli patterns I'd suggest flat patterning.

The best book (HIGHLY RECCOMMENDED) on Flat Pattern I've found is by Norma R Hollen and Carolyn J Kundel. It's calld Pattern Making by the Flat-Pattern Method (pretty straight forward). It's got a lot of examples in it, and is very simply written, with lots of step-by step illustrated directions. It does pre-supose that you have a sloper pattern to start with. You can purchase commercial slopers that might fit right, or you can hand draft or drape one yourself as well. I've instructions somewhere on how to draft slopers for skirt (easy) pants (medium) and bodice (hard) if you want them. there may also be online generators that you can find.

I don't know a good book on draping. It's more of a hands-on process than anything, though I do have some instructions from a class I took that I can scan and post somewhere (when my scanner is up, may be a while).

I took classes at my community college and one at a 4-year for this. You might want to look into theatrical costuming for some of these skills, the best draping class I had was this way. Any kind of drafting (3-d) instruction is good, as the skills are really the same, just trying to make different flat materials fit different things.

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[marle777.livejournal.com]

Wow, thanks so much for all of that info. I never really could figure out what a sloper was and now I know! I'd heard of that book before (I think it's on my Amazon wishlist, but then again so are 300 other books. Literally.) I'll definitely buy that one. Thanks again!

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[caliginous.livejournal.com]

You're welcome. Good luck with the process, it can be difficult and time consuming, but it is worth it (especailly when the only good patterns seem to cost $15 each and then you have to alter them anyway)

[halonoir.livejournal.com]

I find flat patterning to be easier than draping, but I don't use the sloper method.

If you don't plan on taking any classes, my favourite reference book is 'Patterns for Theatrical Costumes' by Katherine Strand Holkeboer (ISBN 0-89676-125-8). It shows hundreds of basic pattern shapes, which as you gain experience you can learn to modify to suit your needs.

Also, taking apart existing clothing is a great way to learn.

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[marle777.livejournal.com]

I'll look into that book... I wish I had extra clothes that I wouldn't mind taking apart, but I hardly have enough to wear from day to day! Guess I should try the thrift shops for that purpose. Thanks!

[clarice.livejournal.com]

I've never taken a pattern drafting class or gotten any books on it... Granted, I'm not a super-excellent pattern drafter, but I make all my own patterns for cosplay and EGL, so I suppose I'm at least passably good at it ^^; I do all my drafting flat on paper, and use those to make mockups in muslin. From there, I'll stitch it together and put it on my dressform inside out so I can pin in the seams or darts where necessary. I remark the lines either with chalk or a just a marker, disassemble my piece, and make a new pattern based on the lines I drew.

Pattern drafting is really hard for everything but skirts and non-tailored shirts. I wouldn't recommend that anyone attempt any sort of complicated drafting (...basically anything but a circle skirt, say, or a loose, undarted shirt) until they've used a lot of commercial patterns and have a good idea of how pieces fit together and how they should be shaped, 2D, in order to achieve a certain shape in 3D. I think it also requires decent spacial skills, so if you have a hard time looking at a flat shape and thinking about it in 3D in relation to other shapes, you'll probably find pattern drafting difficult.

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[marle777.livejournal.com]

Well if you can learn to do it without any instruction I'm sure I can with some help from books! ^__^ My spatial skills are rather good I'd say, so that shouldn't be a problem. I've seen and cut out a lot of commercial patterns (my mom always makes me cut out the pattern pieces when she's making something or helping me because she hates that part. Now I hate that part of the process.) so I'm generally familiar with how certain pieces should look but, I'll probably play around with some more pre-made patterns before diving into making my own. Thanks!

[skwerlie.livejournal.com]

Hah, this may be bad advice, but I'll give it anyways ; ) I make my own patterns for some things, though I've never taken a class or read a book on patterning. I do my patterns flat on tissue paper, and basically just take my various measurements and figure out what I have to do to make the right shape with fabric. It helps to have a lot of existing clothes with similar features to look at. Basically, though, once you know all the sizes for everywhere you need to know the size of and do a little figuring on paper, it's pretty easy to get something in the basic shape you want. It helps to have a bit of extra fabric, and it's pretty essential to try the garment on many times at verious stages. : /

Your results may not look 100% professional, but you can generally get what you want.

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[sakurafairy.livejournal.com]

I do the same thing =), except I usually use wrapping paper because I can never find tissue paper. It's been pretty succsessful, I've made a pettiecoat, pettipants, and heart apron.

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[skwerlie.livejournal.com]

I buy tissue paper from the Walgreens or Osco, in the same section as wrapping paper. I don't know if wrapping paper is too stiff or not, but I'm definitely used to working with tissue paper patterns, so that's what I use when I make them. I think the only picture online of anything I've sewn from my own pattern is here (http://www.usagichan.com/ACen2003/images/ACen2k3-Fri170.JPG), but that does have a few problems of its own ^^; It's a costume of Lettuce from Tokyo Mew Mew, though I've worn the dress a few times without the wig and headpiece for a semi-loli look.

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[marle777.livejournal.com]

I've used this method before myself once when making some small accessories. It worked rather well actually. Thank you for the tip, I had never thought to use tissue paper before! It's even cheaper than buying a ton of muslin. ^__^

[xelyna.livejournal.com]

A few people I know that draft their own patterns just go by trail-and-error, and make lots of mock-ups before they're finished. Personally I find really simple base patterns and alter them to look like what I want, or even just measure up existing clothes to figure out what shapes to use. Helps if you have techical drawing skills and a good 3D spatial awareness (I've do technical drawing and 3D animation, so it's sort of second nature to me^^;;). Taking a pattern-drafting class at a local craft-store might be another good idea... (if they have them where you live).

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[marle777.livejournal.com]

Our craft stores don't have any sort of good sewing classes whatsoever. They have stupid stuff like "How to Make a Curtain" or equally useless crap. Hopefully when I move to California there will be some decent classes available there. I think I should be okay though through self-taught experience for now though, anything hands-on and art related I can handle. ^^

[seeinglife.livejournal.com]

I did much what she ^^^ did. I started out sewing from pre-made patterns. My first pattern was made by tracing around an a-line miniskirt. The second one I made originated from a modification of my basic miniskirt pattern, and then tweaked a bit loosely based on the basic skirt pattern in the tezukuri mook. (Incidentally, I used newspaper to draft this pattern on, and after making it realized my pattern was made from the obituaries. How morbid.) My third, which I plan to test out today, I made by sort of measuring and looking at tops of the style-- it's a babydoll style top. It has three basic pieces... two rectangular pieces for covering the bust, two trapezoid shaped pieces for the flared bottom part, and long rectangles for straps. I'll see when I sew it up today (must do it today! the cut out pieces of fabric have been sitting here so long...) if it worked. I hope it did.

I should look into getting some of the books and base patterns mentioned above...

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[marle777.livejournal.com]

Show us your finished product if it works out! I've heard newspaper is a good option for pattern drafting; I've also read somewhere that you can sometimes get free rolls of blank paper at the local newspaper printing press. They will give away the end rolls they can't use -- free stuff! ^__^

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[seeinglife.livejournal.com]

I like recycling, so newspaper suits me.

I didn't get to make it yesterday, because my sewing machine was being cranky. Meh. Maybe tomorrow.

I don't know that it'd be that EGL anyway... it's going to be made from peach broadcloth with this weird but kinda pretty gathered peachy mesh stuff I found a lot of in the dollar bin over it. But if you think I should post it when it's done, I will. ;)

Hmmm?

[kamikazedst5.livejournal.com]

That sounds about right. For my own personal use, I often alter existing patterns to meet the specifications of the garment that I am creating. Additionally, I might use two or three patterns. Sometimes I mix and match the pieces of a few patterns for a desired result. (ie: put the sleeves of pattern A. on to the bodice of pattern B.) However, when I was studying costume design undergrad, I worked in a costume shop where we made our own patterns out of card stock paper,as well as used miles and miles of muslin before we were through with one garment. I haven't lost that ability, however I almost never employ it unless I'm really really desperate. ie: Kastsucon in a week and I still have not started my petticoat. Muslin, here I come!
Cheers,
Kami

Re: Hmmm?

[marle777.livejournal.com]

Katsucon is just days away, so hurry! I think I have sewing of my own to do before Friday, I need a headdress for my own outfit... guess I better go do that. ^__^;

[lady-vader.livejournal.com]

As for me I've bought a school-book, really intended for pattern drafting classes with teachers so it is quite hard for a beginner, but after some reading I managed to make good patterns. The book contains a set of finished basic patterns to for example blouse, loose shirt, pants, skirt, jacket. Then inside the book there are instructions to how to custom-fit these patterns to fit your size, and then instructions on how to alter them into different garments. For example the blouse pattern into a halter-neck dress to mentoin an example. Unfortunately the examplegarments are quite boring and a little bit "aged", and also have too much of movement space, but I've eventually learnt to tackle these things and create garments that fits me very well and look very well... Whew! ^__^ (http://www.monostar.net/ichigo many of the garments there are made from that book)

And by the way, the book is in Swedish so I think that I can't really give you recommendation on this as I'm sure that most of you can't read Swedish anyway. (and to the few Swedes: "Mönster och konstruktioner - damkläder" Inger Öberg och Hervor Ersman, maybe wrong in the title but the names are correct)

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[marle777.livejournal.com]

It's okay, I think I have enough english text resources to make up for not being able to get or read the book you've used. I just hope my things will come out as nicely as yours always have!

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[lady-vader.livejournal.com]

Good luck, Nadia! ^___^