Need some help...
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egl_archiveI was researching gosurori for a school project, but the problem is that I am not really a part of the gosurori community or a follower of the style, (though I admire it very much) so could you all look over this and see if I've gotten my facts right? Thanks! I know a lot of this is probably inaccurate since I am not a first-hand observer...
A short introduction to what Gosurori is...
Gothic Lolita (often shortened to GothLoli or just Lolita) is a clothing subculture of Japan that could even be considered the direct opposite of the kogal subculture. Contrary to popular belief, EGL (elegant gothic lolita) and EGA (elegant gothic aristocrat) are not the only things that gosurori encompasses. Basically, gosurori is a clothing and lifestyle that pulls on influences from Victorian, European, and other styles, eventually coming up with a frilly or aristocratic outfit reminiscent of the 1800's and early 1900's.
Behind the word...
"Lolita" is a reference to Vladimir Nabokoy's famous novel, but lolita's themselves do not refer to the style as overtly sexual. In fact, it has nothing to do with "lolicon" (short for "lolita complex") which is basically a form of infatuation with child pornography.
Gosurori is a catch-all word to describe both the gothic styles, the lolita styles, and the gothic lolita styles, in addition to aristocrat, punk, etc.
The beginnings of Gosurori
The typical gosurori style originated sometime around 1998 and grew in popularity as more stores and publications were created. With the popularity of Mana (visual kei musician and fashion designer) and his coining of the terms EGL and EGA, more and more subcategories were created.
Categories of Gosurori
Lolita are definitely the epitome of cute in the gosurori style. They are decked in typical "little girl" motifs, like frilly dresses, lace, teddy bears, hearts, parasols, small handbags, hairbows... think of a nice-looking porcelain doll and you have the beginnings of a lolita right there. Many lolita's wear chunky heels or high boots (ankle or knee). Lolita itself, however, has several small subgroups.
Sweet Lolita
Sweet lolita are also known as amaloli. They don't use the polite speech used in other categories, but they are simply the typical girl who wants to be dolled up and pretty, with lots of lace, frills, and use headpieces and other headwear such as bonnets and hairbows. Many amaloli enjoy curly hair, although it's not a must. Amaloli are further divided into optional subgroups: shirololi, pinkuloli, and mizuirololi (white, pink, and blue respectively) which adhere to a specific colour scheme; in addition to himeloli (princess lolita) who add sparkles, tiaras, elegant floral prints, elaborate hair, and an all-around "prim and proper" look.
Classic, romantic lolita
Somewhere between amaloli and gothic lolita are the classic and romantic lolita, who are sort of frilly and sort of casual but neither really creepy nor overly cute.
Gothic Lolita
Goths usually stick with black and white outfits (with a touch of red), and do carry some aspects of the western impression of "goth", such as crosses, coffins, and a "Catholic nun" type look. Pale complexions and darker makeup is used too. A well-known brand would be Moi-mem-moitie, Mana's own line. They lean more towards the "mysterious and creepily smiling porcelain doll" look than the Sweet Lolita "happily and friendly smiling porcelain doll" look. Also less frills and ruffles and more silky and wavier lines to display a more "elegant" and "beautiful" look.
Country Lolita
Country lolita are more casual and not as "prim and proper" as amaloli. They wear things like
little straw hats, gingham, blouses with jumpers, and may present a sort of 1800's prairie-style look with added frills.
Traditional Lolita --> qi loli and wa loli
Qi loli blends traditional Chinese elements with the Lolita style, while wa loli blends traditional Japanese elements with the Lolita style. The best example that comes to mind is a kimono inspired lolita dress.
Cyber Lolita
Cyberloli's are often seen with bright colours and perhaps more extreme makeup than other styles, complete with more unordinary hairstyles.
Punk --> punk gothic, punk lolita
Leaning a bit more towards the Western influence, punks are decked out in things like chains,
safety pins, checks, and such. There is sometimes confusion between punks and kodona, although kodona tend to lean more toward the aristocrat side. This can be either gothic or lolita, depending on how you're dressed.
Masculine-type --> kodona, dandy
Most males do not dress up in the gosurori style unless they are participating in a punk/kodona/dandy style or merely crossdressing. Rather, some females enjoy dressing up in a masculine style, the two best known are kodona and dandy. Dandy (or dandy gothic) is reminiscent of the upper-class English male style of the 1800's – cloaks, long pants, long-sleeved blouses, top hats, and sometimes sporting walking canes and watches on chains. The younger version of dandy (which is usually worn by older men and women) is called "kodona" or "ouji-sama" (prince) and makes one think of the mischievous young master who is eternally teasing his female neighbour. Kodona outfits are generally more childish looking than dandy, with aspects such as shorter pant legs and vests.
EGL (elegant gothic lolita) and EGA (elegant gothic aristocrat)
These are terms coined by Mana to describe his own style. In essence, it is a blend of aristocratic styles from Europe and gosurori aspects. They are generally more mature-looking than lolita or gothic, and have heavier makeup. EGA lacks the word "lolita", which reflects the fact that it is usually worn by the older followers of the style. Both styles do not wear anything other than Mana's designs, since it was his term for HIS style.
Erotic Lolita
Leaning more towards the original definition of "lolita", these erololi wear things like corsettes, skimpy clothes, fishnets, etc.
Guro Lolita
The lolita that specialize in the angsty, grotesque look, with things like chains, bandages, and blood.
The Lolita that Went Wrong --> otaloli and italoli
Otaloli (otaku lolita) are those who dress up for lolita for things such as concerts and conventions ONLY for the sake of being more "Japanese" or more "with it". They may overdo any aspects that they *think* belong in the lolita subculture, such as extreme makeup, super polite language ("doumo arigatou gozaimasu"), cheap fabric, imitation lolita (for example, a long skirt with modern-day style that has lace trim), and is influenced by the small bits of lolita they see in anime, manga, and movies such as Shimotsuma Monogatari. Italoli are about the same, but they are the ones who look awkward and are "doing it wrong", like pairing white dresses with black shoes.
Mini-category Lolita
Twin lolita (girls who dress loli together), Shimotsuma Lolita (girls who have only been exposed to lolita by the movie Shimotsuma Monogatari, and don't truly understand the style), sailor lolita (sailor suit dresses), casual lolita (semi-lolita, or lolita without the frills), Alice lolita (greatly inspired by Alice in Wonderland), schoolgirl lolita (lolita with a geeky twist), Nun-style lolita (lolita with a religious twist), French maid lolita (self-explanatory)
What Gosurori is not
Gosurori is not only a style of dress, but it is a lifestyle in itself. Lolita not only dress up in these fashions, but adhere to the principles, ideals, and way of life. For example, some lolita decorate their rooms to be more lolita-ish, have tea parties, carry around dolls, etc. to add to their frilly and fancy images. To be Lolita is to re-enter a world of childhood, where what is "normal" and "in" doesn't matter. All that really matters is that the Lolita herself feels free of worries and has a sort of "happy world" to come to and be herself. While this may seem like an escape to some, Lolita are simply revisiting and fulfilling a girlish dream of wonder and joy at the little things in life that make all the difference. While the "Lolita" aspect may appear to be all stars and sparkles, it also
encompasses the ability to reflect and build upon darker aspects ("gothic") that adds to the
mystery of growing up and maturing. These Lolita, then, live fully for themselves and not the
opinions of others, letting their ideals bloom into their own judgement.
Thus, Lolita is not merely getting dolled up in a fancy dress and parading with a parasol. It is using this lifestyle to develop your own and create your own ideals. To many, Lolita is what the lolita herself forms it to be.
Well-known publications
Gothic and Lolita Bible, Gosurori (homemade), Gothic and Lolita Punk Brand Book, Kera Maniax,
Clara Bow, Lolita Fashion Fancier, Rococo, Frill, Cosmode
Well-known brands
Alice Auaa, Angelic Prety, Atelier, Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Emily Temple Cute, h.NAOTO,
Innocent World, Metamorphose temps de filles, Moi-mem-moite, Putumayo, Victorian Maiden
A short introduction to what Gosurori is...
Gothic Lolita (often shortened to GothLoli or just Lolita) is a clothing subculture of Japan that could even be considered the direct opposite of the kogal subculture. Contrary to popular belief, EGL (elegant gothic lolita) and EGA (elegant gothic aristocrat) are not the only things that gosurori encompasses. Basically, gosurori is a clothing and lifestyle that pulls on influences from Victorian, European, and other styles, eventually coming up with a frilly or aristocratic outfit reminiscent of the 1800's and early 1900's.
Behind the word...
"Lolita" is a reference to Vladimir Nabokoy's famous novel, but lolita's themselves do not refer to the style as overtly sexual. In fact, it has nothing to do with "lolicon" (short for "lolita complex") which is basically a form of infatuation with child pornography.
Gosurori is a catch-all word to describe both the gothic styles, the lolita styles, and the gothic lolita styles, in addition to aristocrat, punk, etc.
The beginnings of Gosurori
The typical gosurori style originated sometime around 1998 and grew in popularity as more stores and publications were created. With the popularity of Mana (visual kei musician and fashion designer) and his coining of the terms EGL and EGA, more and more subcategories were created.
Categories of Gosurori
Lolita are definitely the epitome of cute in the gosurori style. They are decked in typical "little girl" motifs, like frilly dresses, lace, teddy bears, hearts, parasols, small handbags, hairbows... think of a nice-looking porcelain doll and you have the beginnings of a lolita right there. Many lolita's wear chunky heels or high boots (ankle or knee). Lolita itself, however, has several small subgroups.
Sweet Lolita
Sweet lolita are also known as amaloli. They don't use the polite speech used in other categories, but they are simply the typical girl who wants to be dolled up and pretty, with lots of lace, frills, and use headpieces and other headwear such as bonnets and hairbows. Many amaloli enjoy curly hair, although it's not a must. Amaloli are further divided into optional subgroups: shirololi, pinkuloli, and mizuirololi (white, pink, and blue respectively) which adhere to a specific colour scheme; in addition to himeloli (princess lolita) who add sparkles, tiaras, elegant floral prints, elaborate hair, and an all-around "prim and proper" look.
Classic, romantic lolita
Somewhere between amaloli and gothic lolita are the classic and romantic lolita, who are sort of frilly and sort of casual but neither really creepy nor overly cute.
Gothic Lolita
Goths usually stick with black and white outfits (with a touch of red), and do carry some aspects of the western impression of "goth", such as crosses, coffins, and a "Catholic nun" type look. Pale complexions and darker makeup is used too. A well-known brand would be Moi-mem-moitie, Mana's own line. They lean more towards the "mysterious and creepily smiling porcelain doll" look than the Sweet Lolita "happily and friendly smiling porcelain doll" look. Also less frills and ruffles and more silky and wavier lines to display a more "elegant" and "beautiful" look.
Country Lolita
Country lolita are more casual and not as "prim and proper" as amaloli. They wear things like
little straw hats, gingham, blouses with jumpers, and may present a sort of 1800's prairie-style look with added frills.
Traditional Lolita --> qi loli and wa loli
Qi loli blends traditional Chinese elements with the Lolita style, while wa loli blends traditional Japanese elements with the Lolita style. The best example that comes to mind is a kimono inspired lolita dress.
Cyber Lolita
Cyberloli's are often seen with bright colours and perhaps more extreme makeup than other styles, complete with more unordinary hairstyles.
Punk --> punk gothic, punk lolita
Leaning a bit more towards the Western influence, punks are decked out in things like chains,
safety pins, checks, and such. There is sometimes confusion between punks and kodona, although kodona tend to lean more toward the aristocrat side. This can be either gothic or lolita, depending on how you're dressed.
Masculine-type --> kodona, dandy
Most males do not dress up in the gosurori style unless they are participating in a punk/kodona/dandy style or merely crossdressing. Rather, some females enjoy dressing up in a masculine style, the two best known are kodona and dandy. Dandy (or dandy gothic) is reminiscent of the upper-class English male style of the 1800's – cloaks, long pants, long-sleeved blouses, top hats, and sometimes sporting walking canes and watches on chains. The younger version of dandy (which is usually worn by older men and women) is called "kodona" or "ouji-sama" (prince) and makes one think of the mischievous young master who is eternally teasing his female neighbour. Kodona outfits are generally more childish looking than dandy, with aspects such as shorter pant legs and vests.
EGL (elegant gothic lolita) and EGA (elegant gothic aristocrat)
These are terms coined by Mana to describe his own style. In essence, it is a blend of aristocratic styles from Europe and gosurori aspects. They are generally more mature-looking than lolita or gothic, and have heavier makeup. EGA lacks the word "lolita", which reflects the fact that it is usually worn by the older followers of the style. Both styles do not wear anything other than Mana's designs, since it was his term for HIS style.
Erotic Lolita
Leaning more towards the original definition of "lolita", these erololi wear things like corsettes, skimpy clothes, fishnets, etc.
Guro Lolita
The lolita that specialize in the angsty, grotesque look, with things like chains, bandages, and blood.
The Lolita that Went Wrong --> otaloli and italoli
Otaloli (otaku lolita) are those who dress up for lolita for things such as concerts and conventions ONLY for the sake of being more "Japanese" or more "with it". They may overdo any aspects that they *think* belong in the lolita subculture, such as extreme makeup, super polite language ("doumo arigatou gozaimasu"), cheap fabric, imitation lolita (for example, a long skirt with modern-day style that has lace trim), and is influenced by the small bits of lolita they see in anime, manga, and movies such as Shimotsuma Monogatari. Italoli are about the same, but they are the ones who look awkward and are "doing it wrong", like pairing white dresses with black shoes.
Mini-category Lolita
Twin lolita (girls who dress loli together), Shimotsuma Lolita (girls who have only been exposed to lolita by the movie Shimotsuma Monogatari, and don't truly understand the style), sailor lolita (sailor suit dresses), casual lolita (semi-lolita, or lolita without the frills), Alice lolita (greatly inspired by Alice in Wonderland), schoolgirl lolita (lolita with a geeky twist), Nun-style lolita (lolita with a religious twist), French maid lolita (self-explanatory)
What Gosurori is not
Gosurori is not only a style of dress, but it is a lifestyle in itself. Lolita not only dress up in these fashions, but adhere to the principles, ideals, and way of life. For example, some lolita decorate their rooms to be more lolita-ish, have tea parties, carry around dolls, etc. to add to their frilly and fancy images. To be Lolita is to re-enter a world of childhood, where what is "normal" and "in" doesn't matter. All that really matters is that the Lolita herself feels free of worries and has a sort of "happy world" to come to and be herself. While this may seem like an escape to some, Lolita are simply revisiting and fulfilling a girlish dream of wonder and joy at the little things in life that make all the difference. While the "Lolita" aspect may appear to be all stars and sparkles, it also
encompasses the ability to reflect and build upon darker aspects ("gothic") that adds to the
mystery of growing up and maturing. These Lolita, then, live fully for themselves and not the
opinions of others, letting their ideals bloom into their own judgement.
Thus, Lolita is not merely getting dolled up in a fancy dress and parading with a parasol. It is using this lifestyle to develop your own and create your own ideals. To many, Lolita is what the lolita herself forms it to be.
Well-known publications
Gothic and Lolita Bible, Gosurori (homemade), Gothic and Lolita Punk Brand Book, Kera Maniax,
Clara Bow, Lolita Fashion Fancier, Rococo, Frill, Cosmode
Well-known brands
Alice Auaa, Angelic Prety, Atelier, Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Emily Temple Cute, h.NAOTO,
Innocent World, Metamorphose temps de filles, Moi-mem-moite, Putumayo, Victorian Maiden
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no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 06:47 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 07:21 pm (UTC)one thing you might want to add is that italoli actually literally means "painful lolita", and whereas otaloli is like a cosplay lolita, italoli applies to any lolita that looks so horrible that it's almost painful to look at. XD
that always makes me giggle to think that that term exists.
no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 07:24 pm (UTC)and just because i feel stupid i think it'd be funni if you add this
matter. All that really matters is that the Lolita herself feels
changing herself to her/himself XD! (not to leave them out kakakkaa *cough* excuse me x.x)
no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 07:37 pm (UTC)I applaud you for actually trying to get your facts straight.
:)
no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 07:37 pm (UTC)Not really. To many it is just a way of dressing and not a lifestyle.
no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 08:03 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 09:06 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 09:19 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 09:29 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 10:25 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 10:32 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2006-06-03 04:27 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2006-06-03 04:27 am (UTC)And it doesn't men that fashion-lolitas are wrong either.
no subject
Date: 2006-06-03 04:34 am (UTC)Did I said that everyone has to be like me?
You like to quarrel, you too?
I said that it makes me sad to see the "fashion-lolita" like you call them.
*it makes me sad*
*it makes me sad*
I just want to be sure that you understand that it's my OPINION!
If my opinion is that fashion-lolitas are wrong, I have my expression liberty to say it, okay? thank you^^
no subject
Date: 2006-06-03 04:42 am (UTC)I have a lot of things to say to you but I shall stop here and let others reply for me (if any).
no subject
Date: 2006-06-03 04:26 am (UTC)Except that I don't have a Moitie dress and I can't drink beer.
no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 08:47 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 09:08 pm (UTC)Otherwise, it looks really good.
no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 09:36 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 10:02 pm (UTC)is what Lolita will be considered because the majority of people will dress that way like you say "more "with it"." and "imitation lolita (for example, a long skirt with modern-day style that has lace trim), and is influenced by the small bits of lolita they see in anime, manga, and movies such as Shimotsuma Monogatari. Italoli are about the same, but they are the ones who look awkward and are "doing it wrong","
Well, thank you for understanding well the fashion!
You're not even a lolita and you seem to understand it more that the ones that consider themselves that way.
no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 10:04 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2006-06-02 10:45 pm (UTC)The order of your categories is a little confusing - for example, you define classic loli as somewhere "between amaloli and gothic lolita", but you do this before you've defined gothic lolita. Similarly, you say that amalolis "don't use the polite speech used in other categories" before it's even been established in the reader's mind that there are other categories.
Talking about polite speech - unless this assignment is for a study of Japanese language or culture, you'll have to explain what you mean. (Unless the reader is familiar with the fact that Japanese has a large range of "politeness" in speech, and that this carries some importance, your statement is not going to make much sense.)
Choose one name for a style and stick to it. Don't define "Sweet Lolita" and then use "amaloli" in your discussions. Either define the style as "amaloli" (and include "sweet lolita" as an alternative name) or stick to using "sweet lolita" to describe it. You do this in a number of places.
You'll have to explain who / what Mana is.
Anyway, there's some interesting stuff here, and I know I'll be referencing it.
no subject
Date: 2006-06-03 03:39 am (UTC)Oh! One more thing. The masculine counterparts to lolita are categorized as "Ouji" in Japan (pronounced OH-jee, this means "Prince"). Kodona and Dandy are the two types of Ouji that Westerners have chosen to recognize separately, even though "Dandy" actually originated in Britain and means something else entirely ^^; perhaps for that, "Gothic Dandy" should be used instead.
Also, if you're interested, Novala Takemoto coined the term "b-lolita" for boys who wear lolita dresses.
no subject
Date: 2007-04-11 04:38 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2006-06-03 02:07 pm (UTC)